Travel to Argentina and the Huemul Traverse

My 2023 trip to Patagonia will take multiple posts to cover. It can be broken down into three separate legs; Argentina and the Huemul Traverse; Torres del Paine; and Chiloe' and the Lake District. That's a lot of ground to cover literally and figuratively in this and future blog posts. Apologies for the long read.

As anyone who has been to the Patagonian region of Argentina and Chile can attest to, getting there is not easy. The flights generally are only overnight, each major airline seems to offer about one a day and only from their respective hubs. I first met my buddy Austin in the Atlanta airport after our respective flight legs. Austin would be my travel partner for the whole trip and it was awesome to be able to explore this part of the world with him. 

We hopped on our next flight, the long overnight flight to Buenos Aires Argentina. We arrived in Buenos Aires mid-morning. Definitely not well rested, but still energized to explore a new city, new country, and new continent. Our connecting flight didn't leave Buenos Aires until the next morning so we had time to wander and try to absorb as much as we could.  

Interesting to see this impromptu memorial for loved ones that died during the pandemic and frustration with the government response. 

I learned quickly especially in Argentina, but also in Chile just to a lesser degree, that Pizza is a thing. I would take it on myself to make sure I sample the local cuisine appropriately. Including our first lunch.

Check out this bookstore built in an old theater.

Interesting art...I'm going to need someone to explain this one to me.

We had dropped our bags at a luggage storage facility and made our way to a local park/zoo near our connecting airport. The park had some "patagonian hares" or maras wandering around. These are big rodents not native to the Buenos Aires area, but also not found where we would be in Patagonia, so it was cool to see them here. 

Maybe one of the funniest things we saw all trip was when a child around the age of 6 started reaching for and chasing one of these guys. I started to think the mara might kick the kid, but it did something so much better. To my amusement it was able to make a direct sniper shot of urine right to the kid's face! It took everything I had not to erupt in laughter. A solid defensive strategy that left a crying and embarrassed child. 

The parks in this part of the city gave us a good opportunity to spot some other new species to us! 

Rufous Hornero

Eared Dove

The biggest annoyance in our travel plans was the flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate. We wanted to get an early flight out so we would have more time in El Calafate. The earliest flight left before 6 am. It didn't make a lot of sense to find lodging with check out at 3 am before the flight, so we opted to sleep in the airport. 

Finally following our third, flight we arrived in El Calafate and the Patagonia Region of Argentina. We hung out in the airport before catching our bus to El Chalten where we would spend the first several days of the trip. We would rely on busses for the first two legs of the trip. They are super comfortable, timely, and cheap. But it was frustrating seeing wildlife fly by the windows and not being able to stop. This first bus ride was a rainy one but we still stared out windows as guanacos, rheas, flamingos, among others flashed by. I also noted the fencing along this highway was aggressive! Probably more than 5 feet tall with dozens of entangled, desiccated guancos on our stretch of road. It was a touch depressing after waiting in anticipation to see one, for the first several dozen to be dead and tangled in the top wire. 

In El Chalten, we found our Hostel then stopped by the ranger station to check in. The Huemul Traverse was high on my list of things to do this trip. It's typically done in three nights and 40+ miles. Weather can be tricky with 40+ mile per hour winds at the passes on good weather days. After chatting with the rangers, they confirmed what I was seeing in the forecast. We had 3 days of pretty good weather, not great, but workable before it deteriorated into clouds, rain, and excessive wind. We opted to get an early start and turn the three night trip into a two night trip and avoid the bad weather. 

We picked up some last bits of food to supplement what we brought from home. Then found a place to eat, happily it was more pizza! Then straight to sleep for an early morning start on the trail and our first full day in Patagonia. 

We left the hostel just after sunrise, bags full, and walked across town to the trailhead. The first couple of miles of trail climb up out of the Patagonian steppe vegetation and into the Nothofagus beech forest. The rain yesterday obscured the Fitz Roy massif that towers over El Chalten and draws the crowds to this small town, but it was out and glowing today. 

After climbing out of the trees we crossed some rolling hills before getting our first views into Rio Tunel valley. We'd cross this river on the way in, and then again towards the mouth on our last day.

It was clear we were in late spring conditions, because this hill was completely saturated from recent snow melt. Like walking on a sponge at times.

This is probably one of my favorite flowers I saw in South America. Patagonia Lady's Slippers. It has a cool pollination strategy. Birds are attracted to the white and red base, come along and eat and there are sticky parts at the top that attach pollen to their heads. 

Most parties are content reaching the Rio Tunel for their first day and camping there. We were running against the deteriorating weather so we stopped briefly for lunch then kept moving. Austin and I had both picked up sandwiches from a bakery the night before and carried those for lunch. After eating half way through them we gave each other a funny look and wondered if the tomatoes were bad? They tasted fermented. We learned later that tomatoes are often soaked in wine in Argentina. Interesting, but not my preference.

In order to cross the Rio Tunel the park has set up cables and pulleys for a tyrolean traverse. This high in the river drainage, we probably could have forded across. It would have been cold, a little sketchy, and way less fun. I'd much rather take the alpine ziplines. We packed in harness and cord for retrieving the pulley. 

Leave cord or rope unattended long enough and this inevitably happens. Same goes for fishing line. 

Way better than getting wet!

Following the tyrolean the trail starts to get interesting. We climbed out of the river valley in a hurry and gained views of the Rio Tunel's sources Lago Tunel, Lago Turquesa, Lago Tunel Superior, and the Rio Tunal Inferior and Superior Glaciers.

Crossing around the glaciers was without a doubt the most challenging part of the trip and entirely our own fault. The trail on the map and GPS maintained a course across the terminal moraine. We stuck to that for better or worse. It was only after cursing, falling, cursing some more, questioning life itself, did we realize we should have just descended down and crossed directly on the ice. Live and learn.

The moraine was some of the worst scree I've ever crossed. It was one step forward, two body lengths slide down the hill. Eventually speed became the name of the game. The scree was gonna go no matter what, just get across it fast!

We eventually made it to more secure footing and headed for our first pass, Paso del Viento, literally pass of the wind. We anticipated it, but as we got closer the name lived up to the hype. On our good weather day the pass was windy enough to push me around and make straight line walking impossible. I don't want to be up here on a bad wind day. This close to the south pole, there is very little to slow the wind down, so it whips. The furious fifties and roaring forties. But as we crested the pass, I finely got to see something I had been dreaming of since planning this trip, the Southern Patagonia Ice Field.  

I wish the pictures did it justice, just being there was definitely a moment for me. This is the Viedma Glacier, but the ice extends and is connected to other glaciers continuously for 220 miles in the distance! If forms the second largest extrapolar ice aggregation (after Greenland). The other interesting thing to see, is the remaining ash across the surface of the glacier. There was a mysterious volcanic eruption from beneath the glacier in the late 1980s near those peaks in the far right-hand corner. The ash is still spread across the glacier. It's mysterious because it came from under the glacier itself so the exact location of the volcanic hot spot isn't known. 

We stared for several minutes before the unrelenting wind forced us off the ridge. Even then it was mindful feet as the wind consistently tossed us around. Big backpacks make decent sails. As we slowly traversed the slopes and descended, every little rise and bend opened better views of the Viedma and ice field. I find myself chasing that feeling of being small, insignificant and grateful in nature. It's easy to feel that here.

The trail descended down to Refugio Paso Del Viento where we would camp for the night. It's a relatively wind sheltered spot with a small structure for cooking fully protected from the wind. When we arrived we had caught up with a number of parties that left the day before us. Groups from all over the world. Seeing the various style of packing, gear, and food was intriguing. As I inhaled my rehydrated macaroni and cheese, I found myself coveting the french couple's fresh bread and home made soup.

As we lounged in the remaining day light, rufous-bellied seedsnipes flew into camp and stuck around long enough to let me grab a couple of photos. These are alpine birds similar to ptarmigan but more closely related to shore birds. I am obsessed with the feather patterns.

The ridgeline behind camp protected us well enough to keep the tent up, but the wind kept making its presence known all night. 

The next morning, we tried to get a reasonably early start out. I knew the next campsite would be a little small and wanted to get there in time to find the best wind break. We'd be on the water, and I expected the wind to pick up on the beach. The trail continued to follow the Viedma Glacier. We found ourselves trying to hurry and stay in front of the other parties but also needing to stop and photograph. 

This little Yellow-bridled Finch was a pop of color in the muted alpine tundra.

Anemones 

Streaked Maidens

We started to get glimpses of the toe of the glacier as it empties into Lago Viedma. We had one more pass to get there. My GPS kept indicating we were getting surprisingly close to the campsite yet we hadn't cleared the pass yet. We skirted an arm of the glacier that looked like it had just started to break up in the last few years. Makes me wonder how long until the toe of the glacier recedes back to it. 

Soon after, we started the climb up to Paso Huemul.

At the pass the wind greeted us again with vigor. Despite best efforts the wind still made you wobble like you are four beers in. The far side of Paso Huemul brought sunshine, some protection from the wind, and a dramatic shift in colors. 

Yellow Orchid

Now the reality of why the GPS had us right on top of the campsite came into view. We were on top of the campsite, it was 2,000 feet below us on the beach. But around 3/4 of a mile away as the bird flies. Sorry knees, this trail goes straight down.

It didn't take long to make the beach. The views speak for themselves, just incredible. We picked a solid campsite with the best wind break we could find. Quickly pitched the tent and then walked the beach. The ice washing up from the icebergs gave the already striking landscape an extra sparkle. While we walked the weather started to turn. The wind picked up, dark clouds rolled in. Looked like rain at the pass. As we hustled back to camp the low cool light turned the water and mountains entirely different shades than when we first arrived.

 

Debating it...

Did it...

Sunrise the next morning did not disappoint. 

Our last day on the trail would lead us back into the Patagonian scrub. But the sun was out and the temperature was up. Still windy but having gone from cold and light snow flurries two days ago to warm and sunny is pretty stereotypical Patagonia weather. We kept looking back as the views towards Bahia Tempanos just never got old.

 

The trail emptied us on to Bahia Cabo De Hornos which allowed us to see just how freaking huge Lago Viedma is! This beach would have been a great place to camp if you could just find some shelter from the wind. 

Like a whole different world heading back to the shadowed side of the mountains. 

Wildlife was more abundant on this side of the mountains as well. 

Crested Caracara

Upland Geese would be common for most of the first weeks of this trip.

Unfortunately this would be the best look at a spectacled duck I would get all trip.

These little negritos would also be abundant outside of the trees. Cute little acrobatic fly-catchers.

Grass Sparrow

Black-chinned Siskins

We looked intently everywhere along the trail for its name sake, the Huemul or South Andean deer. There's only around a couple thousand of them left. They really rely on the Nothofagus forests, so as we left trees behind we knew our odds of seeing one on this trail were behind us too. 

It wasn't long before we reached out second crossing of the Rio Tunel. Further downstream the water level was much higher, and fording this section just doesn't seem realistic. Ziplines to the rescue! I never want to get my feet wet again!

We made our way through the final miles of the trail to Bahia Rio Tunel and the parking lot of an old boat launch that previously ran tours out to the glacier. 

I love the green bushy "mother in law" bushes. They could almost support my weight!

This is really where the trail ends, however we still had to make our way through the scrub and then a few road miles to get back into town. There was a well beaten path from others before us over the years who were also unsuccessful at hitching a ride. 

It helps when the Fitz Roy masiff greet you from around the corner.